ABSTRACT
The choli, upper garment, one of the essential garments of female, which they worn along with ghagra and dupatta. The choli-ghagra-dupatta is one of the most popular attire of India. From kuchibandha to choli, this garment has a long journey of development in shape, size, cut, design, and variety of fabrics used for stitching the cholies. To add on the grace, these stitched cholies are often embroidered, especially of pahari region, the undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. In the research, these embroidered cholies are examined for documentation of their materials, construction, design and stitches. It also divulged other accompaniments worn along with these traditional cholies like ghagra and dupatta. The primary information is taken from detailed study of specimen of cholies housed in various museums, online collections and field study. Additionally, miniature paintings and Chamba rumals are examined to trace their evidence through centuries. These embroidered cholies are well acclaimed for their unique designs and motifs. They are categorically seen as bold designs and geometrical designs each executed in different set of stitches. The research documented these designs in form of catalogue comprising of hand drawn traditional motifs of pahari cholies. The research minutely traced constructional variations and stitches that lend special features to these cholies and distinguish them from other form of embroideries from the pahari region.
Keywords: Pahari Cholies, Embroidered Cholies- ghagra- dupatta, Traditional designs, Technique, Construction
ABOUT AUTHOR
DR. ROHINI ARORA
ACADEMIC AND DESIGN CONSULTANT FOUNDER, RUMALS OF CHAMBA
Dr. Rohini Arora is working as academic and design consultant with reputed institutions. She is in the field of teaching, research and development, since early 2005. She has done Masters in Home Science in Textiles and Clothing from Lady Irwin College, Delhi University. She was awarded ‘Best Student Award’ in Textile Design in M.Sc. Textile & Clothing. She has qualified U.G.C NET in December 2005. A Ph.D degree was awarded in Fabric and Apparel Science, Department of Home science, Lady Irwin College, Delhi University in May 2015 on thesis title ‘Capacity Building of Artisans for the Sustenance of Traditional Chamba Embroidery’. She is empanelled as designer in Textiles and Clothing with the Office of the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) in October 2013 and December 2016. She has seven years of teaching experience in premium colleges in Delhi and Chandigarh namely Lady Irwin College, Mata Sundri College for Women, Government College of Home Science and NIIFT. Numerous research papers were presented in International and National conferences. Several research papers and proceedings were published in journals and books. She has eleven years of experience in field of craft. Several workshops and exhibitions were coordinated with the artisans to upgrade the existing skills of the artisans organized by Delhi Crafts Council. Recently, She was invited by Dr. Kapila Vatsyayan, Chairperson, International Research Division and Life Trustee, India International Centre to display the exhibition of embroidered products from Chamba from 17 February’ 2018 to 26 February’ 2018. The exhibition was inaugurated by Development Commissioner (Handicrafts) Shri Shantmanu, IAS, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India. The exhibition was visited by eminent scholars, well covered by several newspapers and also featured on Rajya Sabha TV. The exhibition was supplemented with demonstrations, workshops by artisans from Chamba and symposium for disseminating information on sustaining the rich cultural heritage of Indian textiles.
