EMBROIDERY WORKS OF MALERKOTLA: DECORATING HERALDRY

ABSTRACT

The Indian armed forces’ uniforms have been heavily embroidered with gold, silver, and cotton threads ever since the 18th Century. Unfortunately, for a number of reasons, there are no written accounts or other evidence of the elaborate ornamentation done on the uniforms.

Malerkotla, a small town in Punjab, has a large-scale embroidery industry. The majority of the town’s workers are Muslims. Several decades ago, much before India and Pakistan were divided, this embroidery was first created. It was initially carried out in Ludhiana, where workers embroidered the Star and Ashoka in cotton thread for Indian Army uniforms. Three Malerkotla residents began the embroidery business in Malerkotla after learning the craft in Ludhiana. Today this is done at commercial level in Malerkotla.

There are karkhanas with addas for embroidery work. Only men embroider a variety of items, such as blazer pockets, name badges, hat rims, rank badges, and badges for caps, shoulder loops, and sashes. In addition to the items worn by the officers as part of their uniforms, there are additional items that are used on different occasions, such as tablecloths, wall hangings, and flags for automobiles and tables, as well as banners for offices and parades. Additionally, they produce items for several nations’ military forces. The zari work used for the embroidery on the addas is distinctive and is unique to this small town in Punjab.

Keywords: Malerkotla, Zari embroidery, Addas, uniforms